The Story

The via Francigena is a route system, rather than a single way.  Seasonal conditions and other factors would determine the paths traditionally followed.  Little information was available in Spring 2004, but there is much more now. Please note the distances are approximate, and are probably further (certainly felt like it!).  We took minor roads for preference, diverting from the "official" via Francigena and adding to the distances.  We would also take the higher level roads where possible. The times include finding accommodation each day, sometimes that could take an hour or so.
Date	Section	Km	Time	What we did
14-May	Aosta	na	10:00	We flew into Zurich and took a train from Zurich Airport to Aosta, via Zurich, Milan and Chivasso.
15-May	Chatillon	24	8:00	Walked on the south side of the river on SR, rather than on the SS to the north.  Lots of ups and downs.
16-May	Pont St Martin	28	10:15	Some waymarked footpaths.  Aqueducts, roman roads.  Hotel Ponte Romano was the only hotel open on Sunday.
17-May	Ivera	22	8:00	Nice path through the forest.  High level medieval path from castle to castle.  Excellent walk.  Could not find a restaurant in Ivrea so picnicked.
18-May	Santhia	27	8:30	All SS road walking via Lake di Viverone.  Terrible.  Off SS possible, but much longer.  Hotel a few klms out of town.
19-May	Vercelli	25	7:00	Minor roads.  Out of the Valley and now flat country.  Rice paddies.
20-May	Mortara	31	9:00	Met the author of a book on the VF in this region in Robbio.  He showed us a way across the fields and along the railway line.
21-May	Pavia	42	12:00	Very long day.  Last 10 klms diverted off the road to follow a path along the river.  Very pretty, but made the day longer.
22-May	Piacenza	15	10:00	To avoid the SS, we took a train to Orio Litta, then walked to Corte San Andrea.  Took the river taxi to Calendasco, and walked to Piacenza.
23-May	Fiorenzuola	0	00:15	Avoided the SS by taking the train.  15 minutes train or 9 hours walking.   Rest day.  Medieval country fair at Fiorenzuola.
24-May	Fidenza	17	6:30	Followed the alternate way shown in L'Eredita.  Tourist office very eager.  Pilgrim friendly library.
25-May	Fornovo	32	10:00	L'Eredita.  Minor roads in the morning.  Nice variant in the afternoon through the fields on tractor tracks.
26-May	Berceto	30	11:30	Climbed.  Way marked paths, but got very lost which took an extra hour.  Saw our first other pilgrim (Norwegian).  Berceto very medieval.
27-May	Pontremoli	25	8:00	Off road, waymarked paths to the Cisa Pass.  Descended on minor road via Gravagna village.  Roman bridge across stream.  Pontremoli beautiful.
28-May	Sarzana	9	3:00	Walked minor road west of river to Villafranca, then by bus to Sarzana, avoiding SS.  There is a  path waymarked by CAI, but could not find it.
29-May	Camaiori	24	7:00	Train to Massa, avoiding the sprawling  Carrara.  (Path marked by CAI?)  Pietrasanta to Camaiore on original paved VF and along a canal.
30-May	Lucca	26	7:30	Hilly, forest.  Olive trees, grapes.  Lovely walk.  Followed the river into Lucca.  Large medieval town.  Touristy, but nice.
31-May	Castelfiorentino	15	7:30	Dreadful walk out of Lucca - very noisy & busy road.  After 15 klms and 3.5 hours to Altipascio took the train to Castelfiorentino.
01-Jun	Gambassi Terme	19	6:00	Followed booklet La via Francigena in Valdesa for the next 4 days. Footpath, waist high wet grass, muddy.
02-Jun	San Gimignano	13	4:00	Got lost for an hour.  Towers of San Gimignano visible for many kilometres.  Dreadfully over touristed.
03-Jun	Gracciano	19	7:00	No hotels in Gracciano so bus to Colle di Val d'Elsa.  Lovely ridge top town, quieter and more relaxed than San Gimignano.
04-Jun	Siena	18	6:00	Took a bus from San Martino to avoid chaos into Siena.  Siena must be one of the world's great cities!
05-Jun	Buonconvento	20	6:30	Bus to Isola d'Abria from where the minor roads/paths are waymarked.  Got a bit lost for a while, but very attractive walking.
06-Jun	San Quirico D'Orcia	16	4:30	Bought an excellent map by Kompass to follow minor roads, paths and bike trails for the next few days.  Beautiful days, world's best walking.
07-Jun	Abbadia San Salvatore	27	9:30	Took the highest path, from 300 metres to 1100 and back down to 800.  Alternative routing via Radicofani looked better.
08-Jun	Acquapendente	28	9:30	Via Piancastagnalo and Ponte a Rigo.  Some SS, but not too bad.  From Ponte Gregoriano shown in L'Eredita.
09-Jun	Bolsena	22	5:15	Via San Lorenzo Nuovo - unusual octagonal town place.  Bolsena the best medieval town yet - a real surprise.  Nice walking off road.
10-Jun	Montefiascone	16	6:00	Waymarked off road track, but got lost in the Bosco and ended up back on the SS.  Montefiascone is the home of the EST! EST!! EST!!! wine.
11-Jun	Viterbo	18	6:45	Fantastic roman road on route to Viterbo - still in use.  Stayed in the Quartiere San Pelligrino - original, preserved medieval section.
12-Jun	Sutri	30	8:00	Climbed up to San Martino, then via the crater Lake di Vico national park - forest, shady and cool.  Waymarked off road from Capranica.  Sutri great.
13-Jun	Campagnano	22	4:45	Off road to Monterosi, waymarked.  Then on some major SS, but there is a "breakdown lane" - OK, but not really recommended.
14-Jun	Roma	15	5:30	Walked on the road to La Storta.  Possible off road walking via Parco di Veio?  (Tourist office has maps, but closed in the pm).  Took a train from La Storta to San Pietro - the truly dedicated could try walking it.